I happened to have a spare 18 pin PICAXE to hand so I used that in my build, but to save space I'd recommend you use an 8 pin chip instead.
#3d print files star wars code#
This light sequence is achieved by using a PICAXE microcontroller, the code I used to program the chip is provided below.
#3d print files star wars movie#
It only appears on-screen in ROTJ for a few seconds so the start of the light pattern is replicated from the movie scenes, the rest of the pattern is taken from the Master Replicas prop. The yellow flashing lights on the front of the detonator are designed to replicate the pattern and timing of the movie prop. But as I was in a hurry, I soldered my wires directly to the batteries. I recommend using a battery holder like the one shown in the photos as it will make changing flat batteries easier. You'll need something small enough to actually fit inside the Detonator enclsoure, but also large enough to operate the electronics for a suitable length of time.ĪA and AAA batteries are too large to fit inside the enclosure, so I opted for the smaller N batteries. You'll find that the batteries are one of the more troublesome aspects of the build.
This closes the circuit, activating the lights and triggering the sounds. When the top slider is slid back to reveal the red LED, the roller switch opens. The on/off switching is achieved using the roller switch. The circuit is assembled as per the schematic provided. More info to follow once I get the chance to build and test. It also includes a tilt switch and a DIP switch to give more functionality.
#3d print files star wars serial#
One design is intended to use serial communication with the soundboard to trigger sounds, the other uses the GPIO based triggers. The whole thing is powered using a 4.5v battery source, I used 3x AAA batteries for testing purposes and these are replaced with 3x N batteries in the final assembly to save space.Įxperimental: I've included some PCB design files for the circuit. Visaton K50 8Ω Speaker I'd recommend using a small profile speaker to save spaceĪlternatively Adafruit also have a combined sound board and amp, though stock is limited as I believe the item may have been discontinued.To re-create the sound effects we will be utilising the following items: 3x 3mm Yellow LED's 2.1v forward voltage.To re-create the light effects we will be utilising the following items: Using lighting and sound on a prop really adds that extra dimension and brings things to life, the thermal detonator is no exception. Test fit the assembly again, you'll want to make sure the paint hasn't stopped things from fitting together nicely. Now comes the fun part, using the toothbrush you can remove the crystallised salt to reveal the corrosion, this should leave you with a fairly good weathering effect. Allow another 24 hours for the paint to thoroughly dry. I opted to use a brilliant metallic silver. Once dry you can gently blow off the loose bits of salt, you can then spray paint the rest of the thermal detonator in the final colour. Once you've covered the wet areas in salt you'll want to leave it for at least an hour to let the salt dry thoroughly. Take the salt and sprinkle it over the thermal detonator, you'll find that the salt will stick to the wet spots and begin to crystallise. Using a paint brush apply water to the areas that you want to have signs of corrosion, you'll want to focus on areas where moisture and dirt would naturally collect (such as in and around grooves). The weathering effect will be achieved by using the salt and water. You will want to want to allow this 24 hours to dry as the paint needs to be 100% dry before the next stage. I did a coat of the metallic brass, then after allowing a few hours to dry I followed this up with a coat of metallic gold, immediately followed by another coat of the brass. Spray the top section, bottom section and main slider piece in the gold / brass. To create the weathering effect we will first paint the main detonator parts using what will be the rust / corrosion colour.
The top slide switch grip piece is then painted in the matt black.įirst Coat of Colour and Paint Weathering I then primed the pieces using an all surface primer and left to dry for a few hours. Lightly sand the 3d printed parts with a fine sandpaper (P120) to smooth prior to painting, taking care to remove any dust with a tack cloth.
To create the weathering effect, you'll need the following additional items: To paint the Thermal Detonator and apply the weathering effect, you'll need the following colours:
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